by Michael Hodgson

When the going gets damp, and you want to keep going, you'd best be swathed in a good waterproof / breathable jacket, or at the very least, a highly water-resistant one. Granted, there are many different levels of breathability and waterproofness / water resistance and which level you opt for depends largely on how much moisture is trying to dampen your spirit and how much spirit you are putting in your pace.

Usage
There are three basic levels of water shedding / breathable jackets beginning with those that are made of microfibers and are highly breathable, adequately water resistant. This kind of jacket is ideal if you are running, mountain biking, skating or generally upping the sweat meter while a little moisture is falling earthward. Here, you want your jacket to offer a good windbreak, and to prevent you from getting soaked from the inside out, or outside in. Don't expect jackets in this category to shed much more than a drizzle though, because if Noah comes calling, you'll look and feel like a drowned rat.

The second level of protection, which adds a water resistant membrane and often an outer water repellent chemical treatment to the fabric, moves a notch down on the breathable scale, but also a notch up when it comes to moisture protection. Jackets in this category are intended for use when the aerobic level remains high, but the outer elements are knocking more seriously at the door. They'll still breathe far better than a waterproof / breathable jacket ever will, but unlike the water resistant jackets, these can and will shed a light sprinkle and even a short downpour or two. If it's dumping cats and dogs though, head for cover or reach for your scuba gear 'cause you'll soon feel as if you have been walking underwater.

For those times when the weather is really throwing the kitchen sink your way, your only option is to reach for a waterproof / breathable jacket that uses an outer water repellent treatment on the fabric and a membrane on the inside such as Gore-Tex or any number of proprietary breathable coatings. If your activity level is high (more than a walk for instance) and the rain is pouring down, you'll still get a bit damp, but nowhere near as wet as would in a water resistant jacket or a 100 percent waterproof jacket with zero breathability. An added bonus with the breathable jackets is that they will dry out very quickly if you do get damp once the rain slackens or your activity level drops.

Construction and Materials Microfiber constructions most commonly rely entirely on a polyester microfilament that is woven so tightly together that it becomes windproof and somewhat water repellent by construction. Since typically there are no coating or finishes, the garment breathes efficiently making this style perfect of high aerobic levels activity and when weight and breathability are of prime importance. Occasionally a manufacturer will add a coating or finish to their microfiber creation to improve water repellency, but this comes with a functional price-less breathability.

Next level of protection comes from membranes that are more breathable than they are waterproof, such as Activent (a Gore company product). Patagonia used Activent long before it was called Activent and continues to use the technology under the name Pneumatic. Highly breathable and water resistant, Activent is ideal for high aerobic activity and light rain or snow conditions. Jackets manufactured with Activent are not seam-sealed as it makes no sense-breathability is the issue here.

The ultimate level of protection is found in waterproof / breathable outerwear. With waterproof / breathable laminates or coatings designed to repel rain while allowing steamy sweat to pass through, you achieve maximum rain protection, but do sacrifice a bit of the breathability. The Gore-Tex laminate (also known as a membrane) is the best-known technology for providing both waterproofness and breathability, at it has an excellent record. All garments using Gore-Tex, no matter who manufactures them, must pass Gore's demanding quality standards regarding seam sealing and construction.

The other approach to achieving waterproof / breathability is through coatings. Jackets that are "WB coated" can also be highly waterproof-breathable-and are usually less expensive than comparable models employing Gore-Tex, though not always. While there used to be a dramatic difference between Gore and "the others," I've found that the performance boundaries have softened with an increasing number of jackets, such as the Lowe tested below, performing as well as, and even better than, Gore-Tex in certain situations.

There are a few other key jacket-construction terms you should know. Virtually all jackets employ what's know as a DWR, or durable water-repellent finish, applied to the outer fabric. Like the name says, the DWR is what cause water to bead up on the shell. Without it, your jacket's performance would be compromised; the shell would feel like a wet dishrag.

Most laminate constructions, certainly those utilizing Gore-Tex, refer to something dubbed two-layer or three-layer construction. "Two-layer" is actually something of a misnomer: The outer layer is the nylon shell; the inner layer is the laminate. There's also a third element-a free-hanging liner made of nylon mesh, taffeta or some other material to aid in moisture management. Two-layer jackets are very pliable, and the free-hanging, wicking liner adds a bit of warmth and minimizes any feeling of clamminess. A three-layer construction consists of a nylon shell, the laminate, and an inner layer of wicking material, all sandwiched together. Three-layer jackets are typically lighter but stiffer than their two-layered cousins and, since the sewn lining shields the membrane better than a free-hanging version, are supposedly more durable.

How a jacket is designed to pull apart is just as important as how it's stitched together. The more breathable the fabric, the less features that are needed or used. Ventilation features, as much as any fabric technology, are key to a jacket's breathability. Mesh backed pockets and underarm zippers maximize air flow, as do cuffs, waists and hems that can be adjusted to open wide. I also like storm flaps (the baffle over the zipper) that close with hook-and-loop material or snaps: With these fasteners closed (but with the zipper open), air can still get into the jacket. It's a great way to get some extra ventilation, even with the hatches partially battened down.

Design and Dimensions A jacket should be roomy enough that you can layer underneath it and pump air through it with your body movements. For a general outdoor use, seek a cut about thigh length. The extra inches provide additional protection for your legs and your rear end-and the jacket will never gather at the waist or creep up. More athletically inclined jackets, such as the microfibers, are cut hip length since the extra inches would prove restricting. They often dispense with a hood as well to save weight and eliminate fabric flapping frustration. That doesn't mean you should overlook the importance of a hood in the other jackets however. I like integral hoods because they're easy to reach, generally provide a better fit, and can often be rolled out of the way and held back via a small tab. Hoods stuffed into zippered collars make the collars too stiff and are a pain to access. A properly designed hood moves with your head and has a size-adjustment drawstring or tab, in addition to the drawstrings in front. It should also have an ample bill that shields your face and eyes from sun and rain.

Finer Points Bar-tacks (reinforced stitching) at any pocket corners-and where the zippers attach to the shell-provide durability, while pull-tabs on all those zippers let you get at what's inside your pockets without taking off your gloves. In the world beyond microfibers, jackets with waist pockets lined with a soft, fleece like fabric are nice for keeping hands warm. A stuffsack-or at least the ability to stuff the shell into one of it's own pockets-makes the jacket more packable. And reinforced elbow and shoulder patches protect maximum-wear areas.

© 1999 Michael Hodgson; All Rights Reserved